The 7 best DIY acne scar treatments for 2023 that actually work
By Dr Davin Lim
Cutis Dermatology
Dermatologist, Brisbane
Summary; Davin’s Tips.
Here are my favourite go to tips acne scar treatments moving in to 2023:
- The best bang for your buck is prescription medication gel. This treats acne & has the potential to treat mild and early acne scars.
- Sunscreens are important to reduce red and brown marks following acne.
- Retinol is the next best thing after Differin (adapalene).
- Vitamin C can build collagen & reduce post acne brown spots.
- Sensible DIY microneedling can help early & mild acne marks/scars.
- Deep scars require intervention from a dermatologist.
What is prescription medication gel & can it help reduce acne scars?
prescription medication gel is a prescription medication that is primarily used to treat acne. It is a type of retinoid that works by unclogging pores and decreasing inflammation, which can help to reduce the formation of new acne.
While prescription medication gel may help to improve the appearance of acne scars, it is not specifically designed for this purpose. Acne scars are caused by damage to the skin’s collagen, and prescription medication gel primarily works by preventing new acne from forming and unclogging pores.
That being said, prescription medication gel may improve the appearance of acne scars over time by preventing new acne from forming, which can help to reduce the risk of further scarring. Additionally, the retinoid effect of differin can help to stimulate collagen production, which can improve the appearance of scars.
It’s always best to consult with a qualified dermatologist to see if prescription medication gel is right for you and to find out what kind of results you can expect, as well as possible side effects or risks. They can recommend the best treatment plan for your acne scars, it may include other treatments such as microneedling, chemical peels, laser therapy or other topical creams. In Australia, prescription medication gel is prescription only, however in the US and Europe, you can buy this product without a prescription.
Can home microneedling help treat acne scars?
Microneedling can help treat mild acne scarring, in particular shallow atrophic boxcar and rolling scar types. For moderate to severe scarring, microneedling will give very little gains. Here are some helpful hints-
Choose a dermastamping device over power operated pens. Rollers with 0.25 mm needles can be used if you are careful. Stamping devices can be from 0.2 to 0.4 mm.
Before using a dermaroller, it’s important to cleanse your skin thoroughly and make sure it is dry. The needles should be sterilised before each use to prevent infection.
Here are the steps for using a dermaroller:
- Sanitise the dermaroller by cleaning it with rubbing alcohol and allowing it to dry.
- Apply a thin layer of numbing cream to the treatment area to minimise discomfort.
- Hold the dermaroller at a 90-degree angle and roll it gently over the treatment area in a vertical, horizontal, and diagonal pattern. A stamper is easier to use, as it requires less pressure.
- Apply a soothing cream or serum to the treated area to help with the healing process. My favourite is Cicaplast cream, available from most pharmacies.
- Clean the derma roller or stamper with rubbing alcohol after use and store it in a clean, dry place.
- Repeat at 2-6 week intervals.
- Above all, ensure that your acne is under complete control. Any amount of background inflammation will cancel your potential gains from microneedling.
It’s important to use sunscreen to protect the skin from sun exposure after the procedure, as the skin will be more sensitive to UV rays. It’s also important to avoid any activities that could cause injury or infection in the treated area, such as swimming or sweating, for at least 24 hours after the treatment.
What is the best treatment for brown spots or hyperpigmented acne scars?
There are several skincare ingredients that have been shown to help fade pigmentation caused by acne:
- Hydroquinone: Hydroquinone is a skin lightening agent that works by inhibiting the production of melanin, the pigment that gives colour to our skin. It is considered to be one of the most effective ingredients for fading pigmentation and should only be used under the guidance of a dermatologist.
- Vitamin C: Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant that can help to brighten the skin and fade pigmentation. It works by inhibiting the production of melanin and protecting the skin from damage caused by UV rays.
- Kojic acid: Kojic acid is a by-product of the fermentation process of malted rice, it is also a natural alternative to hydroquinone, it works by inhibiting the production of tyrosinase, an enzyme that is responsible for the production of melanin.
- Retinoids: Retinoids, such as tretinoin and adapalene, are derivatives of vitamin A. They can help to improve the overall tone and texture of the skin, and also can help to fade pigmentation.
- Niacinamide: Niacinamide is a form of vitamin B3, it has been shown to improve the appearance of hyperpigmentation, and also helps to improve the skin’s barrier function, which can help to prevent further pigmentation from forming.
Can retinol help reduce acne scars?
Retinol is a derivative of vitamin A that can be used to help improve the appearance of acne scars. It works by promoting collagen production, which can help to improve the overall tone and texture of the skin. It also can help to reduce inflammation and unclog pores, which can help to prevent further breakouts.
Here’s how to use retinol to treat acne scars:
- Start with a low strength: If you haven’t used retinol before, it’s important to start with a low-strength product and work your way up to a higher strength. This will help your skin to adjust to the retinol and reduce the risk of irritation.
- Apply at night: Retinol can make the skin more sensitive to UV rays, so it’s best to apply it at night.
- Cleanse and moisturise: Cleanse your skin thoroughly and apply a moisturiser before applying the retinol.
- Use a small amount: Apply a small amount of retinol to the affected area, using a pea-sized amount for the entire face.
- Use sunscreen: Use sunscreen with at least SPF 50 during the day to protect your skin from UV rays.
It’s important to be patient, as it can take several weeks to several months to see an improvement in the appearance of acne scars. Some people may experience dryness, flaking, or redness when using retinol, which is normal and should resolve with continued use. My top product recommendations include Murad, SkinCeuticals, & Aspect Dr.
Chemical peels and acne scars- which one to choose?
TCA (Trichloroacetic acid) peel is a type of chemical peel that can be used to improve the appearance of acne scars, fine lines, wrinkles, and other skin concerns. It is a stronger peel than some other types of chemical peels, especially in higher concentrations. DIY peels are not recommended, especially in high concentrations, however some peels can be conducted at home. My school of thought is that if I don’t teach and preach safe DIY peeling, people will do it regardless of pleas from dermatologists. Leave it to the experts.
Here is a foolproof formula for DIY peels that may give you some benefit, with a good buffer of safety. In the context of home remedies, peels are most useful for post inflammation due to acne. For deeper scars, see a dermatologist. We use concentrations that are 10-15 times higher than home remedies.
Here are the general steps for applying a TCA peel. Do NOT under any circumstances go beyond 8% TCA, you have been warned.
- Cleanse the skin thoroughly and make sure it is dry.
- Apply the TCA peel solution to the treatment area, using a fan brush or cotton swab. Be careful not to over-apply the solution, as this can cause excessive peeling and redness. Apply one coat only. Allow 2-4 minutes before applying the second coat. Stop at two coats. Multi Coating predisposes to scarring and PIH.
- Apply a soothing cream or serum to the treated area to help with the healing process.
- Protect the skin from sun exposure after the procedure, as the skin will be more sensitive to UV rays.
- Repeat at monthly intervals for a series of 4-6 peels.
- At this concentration it is expected that you either don’t peel, or you peel with minimal flaking (delayed peeling).
It’s important to also keep in mind that TCA peels can have potential side effects, such as redness, irritation, and even hyperpigmentation. At 8%, two coats, it is relatively safe. Obviously I have not taken into consideration factors such as skin barrier compromisation, active acne, background disorders such as eczema, rosacea, & inflamed skin. I also need to take into account the lowest common denominator when giving DIY advice.
What is the best treatment for red acne marks or post-inflammatory erythema?
Red marks from acne, also known as post-inflammatory erythema (PIE), can be treated with a combination of skincare products, procedures and lifestyle changes. Here are some ways to help treat red marks from acne:
- Topical treatments: Topical creams, gels, and serums containing ingredients such as niacinamide, vitamin C, and retinoids can help to improve the appearance of red marks by inhibiting the production of melanin and promoting collagen production.
- Light therapy: Light therapy, such as home lasers and LEDs can be used to target and reduce redness. It can also help to stimulate collagen production and improve the overall tone and texture of the skin.
- Sun protection: It’s important to protect your skin from sun exposure, as UV rays can make red marks more prominent. Use a sunscreen with at least SPF 30 every day, even on cloudy days.
- Lifestyle changes: Maintaining a healthy diet, getting enough sleep, and reducing stress can all help to improve the overall health of your skin and reduce redness.
It’s also important to be patient, as healing and fading red marks take time. It’s also important to avoid picking or squeezing any active acne as it can lead to more redness and scarring. PIE is one of the harder types of scarring to treat, my team and I use vascular lasers or broad band light to shift persistent redness.
Why do I rate vitamin C as a good ingredient for acne scar treatments?
Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant that can help to improve the appearance of acne scars. Here are a few ways that vitamin C can help with acne scars:
- Brightening: Vitamin C can help to brighten the skin and improve the overall tone and texture of the skin. It can also help to fade pigmentation caused by acne scars.
- Collagen production: Vitamin C can help to promote collagen production, which can help to plump up the skin and make it look smoother. It can also help to improve the overall tone and texture of the skin.
- Protection: Vitamin C can help to protect the skin from damage caused by UV rays and environmental toxins.
- Anti-inflammatory: Vitamin C has anti-inflammatory properties that can help to reduce redness and inflammation associated with acne scars.
Choose a formulation that contains L-ascorbic acid, 10% to 20%. My favourites include products from SkinCeuticals and Synergie Skin.
At home LED masks and acne scarring; how to choose?
LED (light-emitting diode) masks are a type of light therapy that can be used to help treat acne scars. The masks emit different wavelengths of light, each of which is believed to have a specific benefit for the skin.
Here are some types of LED masks that can be used to help treat acne scars:
- Blue light: Blue light has been shown to be effective in killing the bacteria that causes acne, which can help to reduce inflammation and improve the appearance of acne scars.
- Red light: Red light is believed to promote collagen production, which can help to improve the appearance of acne scars by plumping up the skin and making it look smoother.
- Near-infrared light: Near-infrared light is believed to penetrate deeper into the skin than other wavelengths of light. It can help to reduce inflammation and promote collagen production, which can help to improve the appearance of acne scars.
- Combination therapy: Some LED masks have a combination of red, blue and near-infrared light. It is believed that the combination of different wavelengths of light can provide a more comprehensive treatment and can be more effective in treating acne scars.
It’s important to note that LED masks are considered safe to use, but it’s always best to consult with a qualified aesthetic professional or a dermatologist to determine if LED light therapy is right for you and to find out what kind of results you can expect. They will also be able to recommend the best treatment plan for your specific skin condition.
What natural products can I try for acne scars?
If you are really bored or would like to give natural remedies a go at the expense of missing that window of opportunity for effective and efficient acne scar remodelling, you can try some of the fluff listed below (you are far better with mainstream management using retinol, retinoids, azelaic acid, niacinamide, vitamin C, etc…)
- Aloe vera: Aloe vera is a natural anti-inflammatory agent that can help to reduce redness and inflammation associated with acne scars. It is also believed to promote collagen production, which can help to improve the appearance of scars.
- Tea tree oil: Tea tree oil is a natural antiseptic and anti-inflammatory agent that can help to reduce the size of acne and improve the appearance of scars. It has a rate of allergic reactions and an even higher rate of irritant contact dermatitis.
- Vitamin E oil: Vitamin E oil is a natural antioxidant that can help to improve the overall tone and texture of the skin. It can also help to fade scars by promoting collagen production and protecting the skin from damage caused by UV rays. This is probably the most beneficial ingredient in this list. Side effects are exceedingly rare.
- Rosehip oil: Rosehip oil is a natural oil that is rich in antioxidants and fatty acids that can help to improve the appearance of scars. It is also believed to promote collagen production and improve the overall tone and texture of the skin.
- Cocoa butter: Cocoa butter is a natural moisturiser that can help to improve the overall tone and texture of the skin. It can also help to fade scars by promoting collagen production.
When can I see the results from acne scar treatments?
The length of time it takes to see results from acne scar treatments can vary depending on the type of treatment, the severity of the scars, and the individual’s skin type.
For topical creams and gels, it can take several weeks to see an improvement in the appearance of acne scars. For chemical peels, it can take several days to a week for the skin to peel and reveal new, smoother skin underneath. Results from microneedling, laser therapy, and dermabrasion can take several weeks to several months, depending on the severity of the scars and the individual’s skin type.
Fillers for acne scars may show results immediately after the treatment, but it may take a couple of weeks for the final result to appear.
It’s important to note that some treatment plans may require multiple sessions to achieve the desired results, and that the improvement may not be visible immediately after the first session. It’s also important to be patient, as healing and fading acne scars take time, and the results may vary from person to person.
Why is sunscreen important when I am undertaking acne scar treatments?
Sunscreen is important for protecting the skin from sun exposure, even if you are undergoing acne scar treatment, for a few reasons:
- Sun exposure can cause further damage to the skin, making the acne scars more prominent.
- Sun exposure can cause inflammation, which can make the acne scars appear redder and more noticeable.
- Sun exposure can cause hyperpigmentation, which can make the acne scars appear darker.
- Sun exposure can also cause skin cancer and premature ageing, which can further damage the skin.
- Sunscreen helps to prevent further damage to the skin, which can help to improve the overall tone and texture of the skin, and make the acne scars less noticeable.
It’s recommended to use a sunscreen with at least SPF 50 every day, even on cloudy days, and to re-apply it every two hours if you are going to be outside for an extended period of time. Sunscreen should be applied after moisturiser and before makeup, and should be used in conjunction with other acne scar treatments.
How do dermatologists treat acne scars?
Dermatologists use a variety of treatment options to help improve the appearance of acne scars. The best treatment plan will depend on the type and severity of the scars, as well as the individual’s skin type and preferences. Here are some common treatments used by dermatologists to treat acne scars:
- Topical creams and gels: Topical creams and gels containing ingredients such as hydroquinone, kojic acid, vitamin C, and retinoids can help to improve the appearance of acne scars by inhibiting the production of melanin and promoting collagen production.
- Chemical Peels: Chemical peels, such as TCA, glycolic acid or salicylic acid peels, can be used to gently exfoliate the skin and reduce redness.
- RF Microneedling: Microneedling is a procedure that uses fine needles to create small punctures in the skin, which can help to improve the appearance of acne scars by promoting collagen production. We use RF or controlled heating combined with microneedling as it is 4-8 times more effective than ‘cold’ microneedling alone.
- Laser therapy: Laser therapy, such as Fractional CO2 laser or Erbium laser, can be used to target and reduce redness, and also can help to stimulate collagen production and improve the overall tone and texture of the skin.
- Fillers: Dermal fillers, such as hyaluronic acid fillers, can be used to fill in depressed acne scars and give them a more even appearance.
For more on how experts treat acne scars, you can book a consultation with my team at Cutis Dermatology. Alternatively a virtual consultation can be arranged.
